Cherry soda, root beer, sassafras, and lime peel in the nose of Kerpen's 2008 Bernkasteler Bratenhofchen Riesling Spatlese are joined on the palate by luscious, ripe Persian melon and cherry as well as lily-like inner-mouth floral perfume. This finishes with real flourish and succulence, the piquancy of brown spices and citrus peel adding to its memorable appeal. I would feel free to follow this beauty for 12-15 years. In recent years, Martin Kerpen has increasingly proven himself a master of dry Riesling, and the acid structure and relatively moderate accumulation of grape sugar relative to phenolic ripeness that characterize 2008 played into his skilled hand in that genre, in which, additionally, he relied increasingly this year on ambient yeasts. (Of course, he is adept with residually sweet Riesling as well.) it's interesting to study Kerpen's detailed map of vineyard parcels, incidentally, and to see how after the controversial Flurbereinigung or general vineyard restructuring and replanting that is now under way in Wehlen, he will end up with around 8-9 parcels - some identical to his current acreage - or about half the number into which his total landholdings are morsellated at present.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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