Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 1 Star, Mosel, Germany

澤巴赫塞爾廷城堡山雷司令逐粒枯萄精選甜白葡萄酒（一星）

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1670

A “one star” 2006 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese came from various parcels of that site, a terroir that seems to enjoy a special share of the 2006 magic. Perhaps, I mused – and Selbach agreed – in this creamy vintage Zeltinger Sonnenuhr is like cream squared, whereas with Schlossberg there is welcome contrast and interplay. (Later, I found that importer Terry Theise had made a similar remark about Graacher Domprobst.) White raisin, honey, and yellow plum concentrate for all their richness manage to preserve clarity and even refreshment, not to mention saline, smoky, and stony expressions of minerality, brown spices, and pepper. In fact, from its remarkably pale and limpid color through its energy and “kick” to its ravishing, literally lip-smacking finish, it’s easy to overlook the botrytis – but not to remove the residue of pepper, honey, citrus, pit fruit essence, and mineral salts. Imagine the concentration of two or three bottles of fantastic Spatlesen into 375 ml. I believe this is one of those potential “hundred year wines” of which Selbach so eloquently and wistfully spoke.The harvest almost filled the month of October, but by the standards of this large estate with holdings stretching across four communes, that is (in Johannes Selbach’s words) “super quick” and volume was down 30% from the already small 2005 harvest. Musts were sometimes fined with bentonite but never with charcoal. “This is my year of superlatives,” says Selbach. “When I think of my children and their children, and about a wine one could open in a hundred years and say ‘Wow!’ one dreams of wines from great historical vintages like 1911, 1921, 1953 ... and that in one’s own lifetime one might experience and harvest wines that would number among them. For me, that’s 2006.” Selbach took an interest in Pinot Blanc for sparkling wine, since there are some promising old vines in cooler side locations of Zeltingen’s Schlossberg. But he now thinks the fruit will probably always be too ripe for that purpose, whereas the still results are themselves promising.There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300