The 2003 Abadal Seleccio is composed of 40% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Syrah aged 14 months in French oak and bottled unfiltered. Deep purple in color, the wine has a hugely expressive nose of spice box, herbs, black currants, and blackberry reminiscent of a top-level Saint-Emilion. The flavors already are complex as well as rich, the texture velvety, and the balance impeccable. This elegant wine can be enjoyed now but should last for at least another 10 years. Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. 571.642.0343 fax 571.642.0505

A bit of choppy wood announces a fully oaked wine, and yes, it’s a touch hard-coated. But underneath the veneer of barrel there’s lively red fruit and a natural brambly character. The palate is just acidic enough to be lively, and the finish is healthy and settles upon chocolate due to the wine’s generous oaking. Very good mouthfeel and depth make this more than solid. Drink now–2011.——M.S.(4/1/2008)—— 91