As if Schmitges’ 2004 Treppchen Spatlese A.P. #14 were not Auslese-like enough, the two stars on the label of his 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese** points to a wine of over 100 degrees Oechsle, but this was only in his mid-range of must weights for this vintage. Here is another Schmitges Riesling that deftly combines on the palate creaminess of texture with juicy fresh fruit and citricity. Hints of citrus zest and wood smoke add further interest to the flavors and wet stone underlies an elegant and refined finish that is both caressing and invigorating. This represents excellent value. Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84).Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544