Weingut Andreas Schmitges Erdener Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein, Mosel, Germany

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A 2004 Erdener Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein originated in an east-facing parcel that, in Schmitges’ words, “has an entirely unique expression of minerality.” It also very nearly never was, as “the wild boar had about a 3,000 Euro lunch the day before we picked this.” A bright fresh lemon and tangerine nose leads to a thickly creamy palate of enveloping richness, but in which courses electrifyingly bright citrus (maybe that is what has stunned the residual sugar into remission?) and a razor-sharp acidity that makes you worry lest this wine draw blood. This almost shockingly intense wine has not sorted itself out in the finish yet but could well become great wine. Also recommended: 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese trocken ($ unknown; 84).Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Kerlin Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 442-1136; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544