The crop of wines I tasted last year from the well-known Mulderbosch Vineyards (with their strikingly old-fashioned, narrow, vertical label) was a bit disappointing, but among more recent releases, their 2008 Sauvignon Blanc is certainly a clean, pungent representation of its grape, in gooseberry and passion fruit mode. A bright, invigorating, citric, herbal, and faintly saline and bitter palate impression leads to a tart, brisk finish. This should serve well over the next 6-9 months if put to the task of accompanying myriad fresh vegetables.Mulderbosch’s $14 2008 Chenin Blanc was unusually Loire-like, but that resemblance extended to a smoky, reductive aura and a degree of bitterness that narrowly kept me from recommending it as a value. According to the winery blurb, “strains of Mozart echo through the cellar during fermentation.” If so, the wines I tasted aren’t living up to their accompaniment!Imported by Cape Classics, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686 1300

This Sauvignon Blanc offers a snappy spin of citrus and spice aromas, followed by balanced flavors of gooseberry, citrus, white fruit and herbs. stylish and distinctive, it will pair well with seafood, asparagus dishes and spicy cuisine. ——S.K.(3/1/2010)—— 87