While we’re waiting for the next release of The Amargh, Peter Barry presented me with a couple of older vintages for consumers to see how they’re developing. The 2002 The Amargh Shiraz was sampled from a bottle under cork and from a bottle under screwcap. Though I’m a proponent for neither closure, the screwcap bottle was fresher, fruitier and demonstrated a slightly superior texture of tighter, finer grained tannins. However my note and score are for the bottle under cork, which is probably the bottle in most cellars. Very deep garnet-black in color, it displays a lovely choco-mint and mincemeat nose with hints of smoky bacon, coffee, tobacco and cumin seed. The rich, full-bodied flesh is well supported by very crisp acid and a medium-high level of very silky tannins. The finish is very long lending lingering notes of mint, coffee and baking spices. It’s drinking beautifully now and should continue to cellar until 2020+.

This bottle is the 2002 Shiraz The Armagh sealed under cork. Quite distinct from the Stelvin-sealed bottle tasted beside it. This is gorgeous, fresh, and pleasurable. The Stelvin bottle is more detailed, more precise and more focused—this is like drinking the same wine that has been decanted. It’s open without being loose, and it's more approachable than the Stelvin rendition. Exciting. I’d prefer to have the Stelvin in my cellar, but I’d prefer to have someone open the cork bottle for me. It is structurally very attractive. It has 15.8% alcohol and matured for 18 months in 50% French and 50% American oak barriques (225 liters).

Abyss-black and adheres to the unwritten but well understood rule that Armagh must be big and bold, more appropriate for a passionate rendezvous than the dinner table. This vintage offers penetrating eucalyptus, white pepper, even meaty aromas. The palate is full and rich, dealing mixed berries, plum, eucalyptus and a hint of caramel. There are lasting, grippy tannins on the back palate, with notes of wheat bread and licorice on the finish. Drink through 2014.