Beaucastel's Roussanne Vieilles Vignes (from 70-year old vines yielding under one-half ton of grapes per acre) is the Montrachet of the southern Rhone valley. The 1993 and 1994 are the greatest examples I have tasted since the debut 1986 vintage. Only 5,000 bottles of each were produced, but they are well worth a special effort to find. It is almost impossible to say which is the better wine. The 1993 gets a slight nod, largely because it is a year older, and thus more evolved. The wine possesses a staggeringly intense, fragrant nose of flowers, honeyed fruits, minerals, and spice. Sensationally rich and unctuously-textured, this is a great dry white wine with layers of flavor. Complex and multi-dimensional, this wine possesses the weight and texture of a Montrachet and a handful of the large-scaled dry white wines of Alsace. It should drink well for at least 15-20 years. The unbelievably long, complex finishes on both wines must last nearly a minute. I have never tasted richer, more complex, full-bodied, dry white wines from southern France as these two beauties! Both are legends in the making!
The white wine cuvees of Chateau Beaucastel have climbed to an even higher quality level. For the cuvee classique, Beaucastel has gradually increased the percentage of Roussanne to nearly 80%.
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139.
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