The Hirtzbergers’ Pinot Blanc, rarely exported to the U.S., is one of Austria’s best, and the quality of the 2004 Weissburgunder Smaragd Steinporz is far too fine to be ignored. The aromas here are of baked apple, apricot, nut oils. On the palate, this manages to combine the rich, nutty ripeness, doughy, creamy texture that can distinguish the best Pinot Blanc, with the clarity, brightness and minerality that one normally associates with Riesling. The finish is like a deep, mysterious pool of meat broth and minerals that goes on and on. This wine displays the refinement of their 1997, another summit for this grape variety, and one that hasn’t yet peaked. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700