The dark ruby-colored 2003 Grenache Old Vines Clarendon Hills exhibits a big, sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, raspberries, dusty soil, pepper, and herbs. Consume this full-bodied, corpulent Grenache over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Commonwealth Wine & Spirits Inc., Mansfield, MA; tel. (508) 328-6764

What a ride. On the palate, it comes and goes in waves, with cassis surging one moment, and violets and black pepper the next. Tannins are manageable but textured, and the finish brings a nutty, earthy flavor and another burst of berry fruit. Delicious now, and should age well through the decade. Imported by Commonwealth Wine & Spirits Inc.——D.T.(8/1/2005)—— 93