The 2004 Bembibre comes from 100+-year-old vines, receives malolactic fermentation in barrel followed by 15 months aging in new oak. The aromatics reveal mineral, scorched earth, lead pencil, and new oak notes with attractive blue and black fruits. On the palate the wine’s youth is obvious with all the components present but still unevolved. There is plenty of flavor and the structure for 4-6 years of cellaring so purchasers should be willing to be patient. Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 297-6713; Opici Wines , www.opiciwines.com

Elegant and intense. This perfumed, finely etched red offers berry, wild herb and wet stone notes that are lively and harmonious, with plenty of structure to back them up. The long, floral finish brings you back for another sip. Drink now through 2014. 4,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Bierzo Select to Add

This blend of six vineyards is great. It’s dense and full of minerality, finely polished leather and pure berry aromas. The palate sings a melodious tune that begins with creamy oaky notes and expands to more defined plum, vanilla and fine herb flavors. The ’04 Bembibre is a rounder, more complete version than the impressive but more austere 2002 (the last Bembibre we reviewed). It is immediately pleasing and keeps you on the hook to the end.——M.S.(11/1/2007)—— 93