The 2004 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling trocken is the latest in an historical line of satisfying “Pradikat”-less dry wines from this estate and site. Smelling of charred wood, sweet clover, and toasted nuts, it comes onto the palate medium-bodied but palpably full of extract, glossy, incipiently creamy in texture, charry, nutty, stony in its decisive mineral expression. Long and satisfying despite a touch of austerity, considerable personal experience with cellaring this wine in similarly high-acid, high-extract vintages leads me to confidently predict at least 12 or 15 years of satisfying drinking, although few will care to put me or the wine to the test. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300