Loosen relates that his 2009 Erdener Pralat Riesling Alte Reben Grosses Gewachs stopped fermenting in fuder at precisely the level he is targeting for his Grosse Gewachse, 7 grams each of residual sugar and acidity. Pungent scents of sassafras, woodruff, sage, and tangerine zest set the themes for a palate performance that is broad and well-concentrated but somewhat mealy in texture and pronouncedly bitter in finish. This is substantial dry Riesling (at 12.8% alcohol) but to me substantially uninteresting. That said, it had only just been bottled in time for the Berlin presentations of Grosse Gewachse the first week in September so it might be suffering on that account. I would tentatively plan on drinking it over the next 3-4 years. “I want real Kabinetts,” says Ernst Loosen by way of explaining his early start on the 2009 harvest, “between 80 and 83 Oechsle, with crisp acidity, freshness, and the like; and you can’t wait around, especially when you have five, maybe seven days of Kabinett-picking to do and every day ripeness is rising. This year, we wanted to delineate even more sharply the difference between Kabinett and Spatlese, as well as a distinct difference between Spatlese and Auslese.” In practical terms, this meant among other things slightly reducing the levels of residual sugar in the Kabinetts (Loosen says that trend will continue incrementally); and reserving botrytis fruit solely for wines labeled “Auslese.” Eiswein from Lay, Treppchen, and Sonnenuhr; Eiswein and T.B.A. from Pralat; as well as a T.B.A. from Wurzgarten were all – according to cellarmaster Bernhard Schug – in various states of fermentation or preparation for bottling when I visited in September, so consequently I shall review those wines (or at least some subset thereof) at such time as I report on the 2010 vintage.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255
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