Busch’s 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Auslese Falkenlay – grown on grey slate – offers pure pear and quince nectar in the nose and mouth, considerable sweetness, a gorgeously polished, creamy texture, and only the subtlest sort of botrytis ennoblement, with no coarse manifestations of rot. This Auslese’s finishing clarity and juiciness and subtly salt and wet stone mineral manifestations belie its high residual sugar and make it a pleasure (if not a compulsion!) to go back for the next sip. Also recommended: 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese trocken*** ($39.00; 86).Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienberg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which makes him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Best-known inside Germany for his dry wines, he has nevertheless crafted excellent nobly sweet Rieslings in the present as well. The style tends toward creaminess of texture and ripe, relatively low acidity, particularly at the dry end of the spectrum.Importer: Mosel Wine Merchant, Manhasset, NY and Trier, Germany; tel. +49 (0) 651 14551 38