The 2008 Syrah the Deal Sundance Vineyard sports a nose of cured meat, wood smoke, exotic spices, lavender, plum, and blueberry. In the glass it is already complex with layered, savory, ripe fruit and a lengthy, pure finish. I met up with Charles at his new wine bar in Walla Walla before we drove out to the winery in his 1949 Cadillac, a picture of which is on the web-site (not the deluxe model like my grandfather used to drive). It is always a highlight of my annual trip to Washington because in addition to the tasting, you get a performance but, after all is said and done, when it comes to making wine, Charles Smith is all business. He knows where the vineyards are, he believes in amazingly low yields, and in the winery he is a non-interventionist. All of the following wines were made with native ferments and were bottled without fining or filtration. Tel. (509) 526-5230; www.kvintners.com

The Deal is the real dea—Syrah with all the peppery herb and earthy fruit flavor that this grape can provide. A smoked ham/cured meat component emerges as flavors weave into the back of the throat; nicely integrated. Threads of herb and dried leaf continue into the finish, along with a streak of pure cherry.——P.G.(12/15/2011)—— 93