The 2006 Syrah The Deal Sundance Vineyard (I’m guessing that “The Deal” refers to the price) delivers aromas of mineral, smoked meat, game, and black olives that leap from the glass. Loads of succulent blue and black fruit are supported by refined tannins and well integrated oak. This lengthy, mouth-filling effort can be enjoyed now although it will continue giving over the next 8-10 years. When it comes to his wines, the otherwise wild and irrepressible Charles Smith is as serious as a heart attack. Native yeast fermentation, foot crushing, spontaneous malolactic fermentations, gentle basket pressing, no fining or filtration are routinely practiced in the cellar. Even more important, Charles Smith knows where to find the great grapes. In a region where blending is still the rule of thumb, he is the ultimate terroirist. His 2006 collection is as good or better than anything he has done to date, although a tasting of 2007 barrel samples indicate that the best is yet to come. Tel. (509) 526-5230; www.kvintners.com

A potent mix of spicy citrus, sweet berry and gamy funk aromas heighten the nose, which leads into a mouthfilling, meaty wine, loaded with flavors of berry, plum, balsamic and coffee grounds. The sharp acids and tight tannins help define the midpalate, and the finish extends into lingering spice, moist earth and more coffee.——P.G.(9/1/2009)—— 93