Aromas of white currants, pear, dried white flowers and wheat toast introduce the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping wine underpinned by racy acids, concluding with promising back-end grip. Germain tells me that this cuvée is purchased as must and comes from 60-year-old vines that are farmed according to "lutte raisonnée."