Peaches, lime, and vanilla are the key notes of Girardin’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts, which manages to suggest a luscious, citrus cream-filled pastry while preserving a bright refreshing cast. Bitter nips of lime zest and peach kernel along with vanilla, toasted nuts, and wet stone all offer counterpoint, leading to a lingering, gentle finish. As delicious as it is even before bottling, there should be no reason to defer the pleasure of popping a cork, although one would hope for at least 4-6 years of satisfying bottle evolution. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.