A 2006 Chevalier-Montrachet (of which there are four and a half barriques) offers superior subtlety and clarity in the context of Girardin’s collection. Bright citrus, peach preserves, resin and vanilla from the barrel, bitter-sweet iris, lime zest, and crushed stone all suggest themselves throughout. The combination of breadth and richness with clarity, lift, and elegance as well as understated finishing complexity offer an opportunity (for those with the requisite disposable income!) to combine sensual indulgence with wonder and intrigue. There is an ineffable but somehow chalky, stony essence in the finish here that lingers in one’s memory long after it has finally faded from the palate. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.