The superb 1994 Riesling Grafenreben (made from 20-30-year old vines) offers a honeyed marmalade, exotic fruit-scented nose, a suggestion of minerals, medium body, admirable precision and purity, and a long, ripe, dry finish. It is a young, impressively-endowed Riesling for drinking over the next 7-8 years. The 1994 offerings look to be some of the most exciting wines to emerge from Alsace. Bott-Geyl's low profile and insider reputation translate into reasonable prices .... for now.Twenty-eight-year old Jean-Christophe is earning considerable accolades from the French wine press for this estate's change in direction. Given the high prices fetched by the truly great wines of Alsace, readers should note that Bott-Geyl's prices have not risen as high as the quality level mandates.European Cellars is located at 121 West 27th Street, Suite 1103, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567