Readers should not ignore the outstanding 2002 Montevertine, which in this vintage is made with the addition of the fruit normally used for Le Pergole Torte. A lively dark ruby, it offers black cherries, tobacco, tar, toasted oak and earthiness with notable depth and a super-refined personality. It is a surprisingly outstanding wine in this difficult harvest. Unlike the estate’s top selections in more important vintages, it will also drink well at an early age. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990