The opaque purple-colored 2000 Petite Syrah Estate (200 cases) exhibits aromas of ink, minerals, licorice, incense, and black fruits along with full body, huge extraction, and mouth-searing levels of tannin. Don't think about touching a bottle for at least a decade ... unless you are a masochist! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030. Tel. (707) 963-0940; Fax (707) 963-8683

Opens with a blast of leathery bacon and saddle aromas next to blackberry and cherry, with leaner notes of cranberry and tobacco. The wine is extremely dry, and the tannins are fierce and in your face. The question is, will the wine improve with age, or just fade away? ——W.E.(4/1/2003)—— 83