The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain possesses a black/blue/purple color, and a texture of unctuosity and thickness. Greatness is suggested by a wonderfully sweet mid-section, gorgeous purity, and this humongous wine's overall symmetry. It also possesses sumptuous layers of concentration, remarkably sweet tannin, low acidity, and a 40+ second finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2040.If Godzilla drank California Cabernet Sauvignon, would there be any doubt as to what choice it would be? Anyone who has regularly tasted Randy Dunn's Cabernet Sauvignons (first produced in 1979) realizes several things. They all possess the following characteristics: (1) remarkable color and richness, (2) massive personalities with huge tannic structures, (3) gorgeous purity and unreal aging potential. Last year I reported on a tasting where all of Dunn's top wines back through the 1982 vintage were served. Remarkably, they had hardly budged in development, yet they were still exceptionally rich in their pure creme de cassis, black raspberry, and blackberry fruit notes. These are obviously more than 20-25 year wines. It is not far-fetched to suggest that Randy Dunn is producing Cabernet Sauvignons that, in top vintages, will be fresh, lively, and rich in fruit at age 50. Unbelievably, Randy Dunn has barely raised his prices in the two decades he has been making wine. For those with patience, these are among the finest values in long-lived, classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.Tel. (707) 965-3642; Fax (707) 965-3805
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