Sweet-tart green-apple aromas yell “Riesling” in a voice that’s just too California—too ripe, too sweet, too heavy. Even a slight prickle can’t liven it up enough to warrant a big score. Still, it’s well made, and should partner Chinese take-out ably enough if you’re not in the mood for a beer.——J.C.(11/1/1999)—— 83