The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a touch darker and richer than the regular bottling, although it, too, remains a bit on the slender side. The fruit is layered nicely, with perfumed black cherries, plums, licorice, new leather and menthol, all of which swirl together nicely in the glass. The finish is long and pure, with just enough intensity to balance the tannins on the close. This is one of the more accessible 2004 Riservas readers are likely to encounter. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. Importer: Panebianco LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 685-7560

Made in limited quantities, this austere Riserva exhibits aged tones of dried blackberries and currants, exotic spice, tar, cola and powdered licorice. There’s great freshness here that helps propel the wine over the palate. ——M.L.(10/1/2010)—— 91