The 1988 is Guigal's best red Hermitage since the 1983. More concentrated than either the 1989 or 1990, it exhibits an opaque, dark ruby/purple color, and a huge, relatively undeveloped but promising perfume of cassis and minerals. In the mouth there is sensational concentration, dramatic flavors that are still in their infancy, and plenty of robust tannins in the impressively long finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2005. Last tasted 12/95. The Guigal family owns no vineyards in Hermitage, but meticulously purchases wine that has been vinified by the grower according to the Guigal formula. Guigal produces his red Hermitage from 100% Syrah, refusing to blend in the 15% white wine permitted by law. Just under 2,000 cases of red Hermitage are produced. Guigal does not fine the wine and will not filter it if it falls brilliant naturally by virtue of its very long aging (three years) in wooden barrels and large foudres. He is a believer in long wood aging for Syrah, learning from his father that extended cask and foudre aging for Syrah usually leads to a softer, more complex wine. Consequently, he is always the last to bottle his red Hermitage. Guigal plays it close to the vest with respect to where he purchases his Hermitage juice, but the Fayolles, occasionally Bernard Faurie, and the two Sorrels (Jean-Michel and Marc) are known to be suppliers to Guigal. Marcel Guigal has also confessed to me that he will not be content until he becomes the proprietor of some Hermitage vineyards. With the vast wealth this firm has earned from its worldwide success, readers should not be surprised to find out in the future that Guigal has purchased some important vineyards in this hallowed appellation.

Ripe and generous, with a strong gamy quality that sneaks in on the finish. A style not everyone will love, but has intensity and balance. Drink now. -