Another upgrade in the huge hierarchy at Yalumba, the Hand Picked selections are all impressive. The 2003 Mourvedre/Grenache/Shiraz is slightly chunkier and more corpulent than the streamlined, elegant, nuanced 2004. Importer: Negociants, USA, Napa CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

Dry and grippy, as a colleague called it, on the palate—in other words, these tannins just aren’t going anywhere. Fruit here is tight, taut stuff: like the skin of black plums and purply berries, quite like what you get on the nose. This wine will keep you on your blind-tasting toes, and will even hold up in the cellar. A blend of 60% Mourvedre, 21% Grenache and 19% Shiraz. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. ——D.T.(5/1/2005)—— 89