If readers haven't yet recognized the improvements at Gainey, it is time to pay attention. Just about everything the winery has released over the last several years has offered considerable interest and quality. The 1992 Chardonnay from Santa Barbara exhibits a Meursault-like, nutty, smoky, richly fruity aroma. Pure, rich, concentrated flavors with well-integrated, crisp acidity give the wine an elegant, vibrant personality. This fresh, well-made Chardonnay will drink well for another two years. Readers should not forget the outstanding 1992 Chardonnay Limited Selection Unfiltered ($25.00); 92, and the 1992 Sauvignon Blanc Limited Selection ($18.00); 91 that were reviewed in detail in issue #93. Tel. (805) 688-0558.