A gamey meatiness accompanies the tart red fruit aromas and flavors of Geantet-Pansiot's 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes. Well-concentrated, compact, and with firm tannins, this is invigorating in its finish brightness, if hardly an especially upbeat or charming wine. It might be best to revisit it in 2010 or 2011 to see how much additional complexity might have emerged and whether the tannins are softening, but my intuition is that it will be best to have drunk this within 3-5 years. Geantet thinks this is even better than the corresponding 2005, and I can agree that it's certainly as impressive in its way.
After having been pleasantly surprised – even startled – by the quality of Vincent Geantet's 2005 collection, his 2006s demonstrated his talents in a challenging vintage. Geantet waited until the 25th of September to begin picking. He says that at most 10% of fruit needed to be culled from his crop, because proper vine management minimized problems with under-ripeness, botrytis, or taint of hail. Furthermore, his overall yields – unusually for the vintage – were, he reported, normal. As is routine at this address, a nearly uniform 30% level of new barrels was maintained (without its being obviously noticeable); malos were over well before Spring; and bottling took place during the second winter, leaving no indication in the glass that this was premature.
Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228
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