Theo Minges Riesling Spatlese Trocken Kalkstein

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The Minges 2009 Riesling Spatlese trocken Kalkstein – a bottling (here in its second installment) showcasing a chalky portion of the almost ludicrously heterogeneous Gleisweiler Holle – alluringly mingles scents of citrus oils and iris-like bittersweet floral perfume with suggestions of crushed stone. Whereas Minges employed cultured yeasts in the late stages of fermentation to insure that his other trocken Rieslings finished below 9 grams, in this instance the fermentation was unassisted. There is a greater sense of stuffing here as well as a plusher, glossier feel than in its two immediate dry Spatlese siblings, but the expression of citrus tends more toward the bitterness of rind and oils, lending the long finish here a kind of intensity likely to be an acquired taste. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300