The inviting nose of this mature red blends berry, vanillin oak, sweet cream, wood and tobacco. But the wine never fully delivers on the front-end promise, as oak sits heavily on the berry-plum fruit, giving it a smooth but rather leaden feel. More woody tannins show on the modest finish. Probably would have shown more positively three years ago. —M.M.——M.M.(9/1/2002)—— 84