Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Sauvignon de Saint-Bris, Burgundy, France

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Brocard’s 2007 Saint-Bris Domaine Sainte Claire represents a minor triumph for the vintage as well as the appellation, possessing ample ripeness exemplified by grapefruit and white peach; nearly electric brightness; and transparency to the nuances of salt, chalk, and stone that help define wines of the greater Auxerre. What’s downplayed here, thankfully, are obvious herbal and gooseberry expressions of the Sauvignon grape such as so often prevail in this appellation (and did in last year’s rendition from Brocard). One is treated as well in this instance to floral notes – suggesting buddleia and elder flower – that waft all the way through to the wine’s lip-smacking finish. It should remain deliciously versatile for at least three more years. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400