Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Sauvignon de Saint-Bris, Burgundy, France

點擊次數(shù)：8644

The Brocard 2006 Saint-Bris experienced 10-12 hours of skin contact and was intentionally hindered from going through malo-lactic transformation (although the 2005 did malo). Lime and gooseberry give this a capital “S” Sauvignon character that is bright and refreshing, clean and penetrating, although there is not really much of what I would deem typical Saint-Bris character here. Enjoy this during its first couple of years in bottle. Brocard has bottled what he calls a “trio geologique” of appellation Bourgogne wines reflective of three different variations on terroir, and while there is obviously no attempt here to vinify with scientific attention to “other things being equal” these wines are certainly thought-provokingly delicious. Since my visit, Quebecois cellarmaster Patrick Piuze, who arrived here in 2005 from Verget, has been replaced by Nadine Gublin of Domaine Jacques Prieure. A significant portion of the vast Brocard estate is now being farmed biodynamically. Piuze, like many vintners this year, favored racking his young wines off their lees earlier than usual with the intention of avoiding any heaviness. I did not by any means taste all of the enormous range of wines crafted at this address, and including several different labels. Brocard bottled from 2006 the first commercial quantities of three premier cru cuvees under the name “Quintessence,” each representing a broad range of sites that precludes “single vineyard” status. (I place that expression in quotes, since the names of many of the best-known premier crus by law already serve as collective or alternate names for certain nearby crus.) The blends are largely determined as juice, subject to some later fine-tuning.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400