Clumsy as an ox at first, but better with airing. This is your classic slightly herbal Carmenere, and in the folds you’ll find soft berry fruit, copious oak and a certain creaminess that makes the mouthfeel plush. It’s good if you like a fat, soft-tannin wine. But if tobacco and green notes turn you off, then it might be better to steer clear.——M.S.(3/1/2008)—— 86