Vollenweider did a pre-selection on all of his parcels and then vinified the collective results as 2004 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett. This wine displays a beautifully pure apple and nectarine aroma. In the mouth, subtle creaminess of texture compliments luscious, bright and bell-clear fruit of a sort scarcely possible outside of realms of slate. The finish is ravishingly long and refined, with apple, lemon, white peach, and nectarine, as well as hints of herbs, flowers, and spices that may blossom into further complexity with time. Still, I find this wine irresistible right now, although, interestingly, Vollenweider confesses to finding it marginally under-ripe! Importers: Vineyard Research, Inc., Wellesley, MA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA.