Brewer Clifton’s 2010 Chardonnay Gnesa is intense in its color and flavors. This is a decidedly big, broad-shouldered wine with plenty of acidity to back up the rich, vivid fruit. Apricots, nectarine, almonds, flowers and spices flesh out on the generous, inviting finish. The western and southern borders of this site are adjacent to the Pacific Ocean. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Steve Clifton describes the 2010 harvest as 2-3 weeks later than normal. The Pinots were brought in during the second and third weeks of September, in between the heat spikes, while the Chardonnays were harvested later, once temperatures cooled off . The 2010s are beautiful, transparent wines that capture the essence of the vintage and their respective sites. The single-vineyard wines can be hard to track down, but to tell the truth, I am increasingly drawn to the straight appellation Chardonnay and Pinot, as they are less expensive, relatively easy to find and full of personality. Tel. (805) 735-9184; www.brewerclifton.com