An updated report on the 1996 Hermitage Vin de Paille (initially reviewed in issue number 140) (700 bottles produced). Fermented for five years before it became stabilized, this 100% Marsanne cuvee exhibits a deep garnet/amber color, an unctuous texture, and a sweet nose of roasted nuts intermixed with white truffles, marmalade, and molasses. It possesses huge body, great richness, and tremendous underlying purity. It finished with 15% alcohol. Drink it now and ... over the next 75-100 years. This family-run estate continues to go from strength to strength, with the father and son (Gerard and Jean-Louis) team pushing all the right buttons to achieve success at all quality levels. Jean-Louis Chave is responsible for several negociant wines. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524