Col d’Orcia is the only property I am aware of that is releasing a Riserva in the very difficult 2002 vintage, but Cinzano was particularly pleased with one barrel of his Brunello that year and decided to fly in the face of conventional wisdom by bottling the wine. The 2002 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a surprisingly successful effort. It shows an attractive inner sweetness and notable balance even though it naturally is lacking body and texture. To be sure, this will always be a leaner style of Brunello but it should develop nicely in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. In addition to making wines at his estate Col d’Orcia proprietor Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is also the newly appointed President of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. Cinzano cuts a dashing figure and his diplomatic, aristocratic background seems to be a perfect fit for leading the producers’ consortium through the challenges it faces today. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642