Starts with intense black-fruit aromas and dark, smoky accents as well as baked berries, licorice and meat. In the mouth, it’s a bit clumsy and amped up, with big tannins, extract and a mouthfeel that grabs. Flavors of berry fruit and mint are good, while the finish bounces toward a loud finish. Not what you’d call an elegant wine; it’s more about ripeness, power and extract.——M.S.(9/1/2009)—— 87