Mondavi continues to turn out a bevy of delicate, delicious, and intriguing Sauvignon Blancs. Readers looking for something rare in Sauvignon Blanc should try to latch onto a bottle or two of the 1996 Sauvignon Blanc To-Kalon I Block. Made from extremely old vines planted just south of the Mondavi winery, it boasts a citrusy, melony, grapefruit-like nose, followed by dry, medium-bodied flavors with surprising length and intensity. It is a subtle, restrained wine that should age easily for 4-5 years. Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.