The 2011 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens has a tight blackberry, bay leaf and seaweed bouquet. The palate is typically tannic and brusque on the entry with angular tannins, fine acidity and a strong saline finish. There is a hint of bitter chocolate on the aftertaste, perhaps from a touch of wood that needs time to be absorbed, therefore I suggest affording this Pommard several years in bottle – there is a lot of energy in this wine. Drink 2016-2030.
Prior to launching into Maison Lucien de Moine’s 2012 reds with irrepressible winemaker Mounir Saouma, we revisited some of his 2011s that are now in bottle. To recap, Mounir is one of the last Burgundy producers to bottle his wines, since he is a great believer in extended elevage. There is a clutch of outstanding wines in this vintage, particularly at the grand cru level, where one must admire the consistency across the board. As always, readers are reminded that Lucien Le Moine’s wines are made in a stringently reductive method, therefore they always need more decanting time than other growers.
Importers: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000, Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639
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