Barbera enthusiasts should drop whatever they are doing and actively seek this wine. The 2014 Barbera d'Asti Superiore Bionzo is a creation of inspiration and beauty—and not just because it defies logic that such a sumptuous wine could be made during a growing season that was harder on the Barbera grape above all. This is not the first rodeo for these old vines. Some sort of internal plant institutional memory has cleverly guided these vines though adverse growing conditions. Of these old vines, up to 20% are still planted on their original root stock, and those roots have penetrated profound depths. Indeed, this wine opens to an inky black, impenetrable appearance. Dark fruit aromas float slowly to the top. Efforts have been made to keep the alcohol low, but this powerful wine still registers 14.5% alcohol. Because of severe fruit selection, only 1,500 bottles were made in 2014, down from an average of 3,000 in an average vintage. This is a lovely wine.
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