Fresh pear, lime, cardamom, and elder flower appear make up the nose of the Brocard 2008 Chablis Vaucoupin, half of which originates in purchased fruit. Citrus rind along with pear pip and cherry pit piquancy contribute to an almost severe sort of palate-stain and this wine’s density and acidity, while formidable, make no attempt to ingratiate or charm. I’d like to revisit it next year but give it high marks on aromatic purity, density, and persistence, and expect it will keep well for more than half a dozen years. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) headed-up the Brocards’ 2008 efforts from start to finish, including a harvest that extended well into October, while Julien Brocard continues to up the percentage of acreage farmed biodynamically at this enormous property. (Tiny lady bugs and moons are scattered discreetly across the labels of those Brocard wines that issue from “bio” vineyards.) Due to time limitations, I did not taste the entire 2008 collection here, but every wine I tasted could be recommended and is included in this report.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400