The 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese displays site-typical apple and vanilla with the same sort of drive, but more concentration, than was exhibited by this year’s Kabinett. The suggestion of creaminess and of deep, nutty richness on the palate helps harmonize the insistent and efficacious acids that are virtually a common element chez Kerpen this year. Mineral salts and wet stone, vanilla, resins and nut oils really stick to the gums by way of finish. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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