From a little-known site far back into the woods above Milly (and whose wine can be – and usually is – bottled with the name of its better-known downhill neighbor Vaillons), the Long-Depaquit 2006 Chablis Beugnons displays salted chicken stock and lemon with underlying, chalky stoniness – in short, a surprising degree of austerity and leanness for its vintage. There can be no doubt though about this wine’s sheer concentration, striking minerality, nor the penetration of piquant nuttiness and bright citrus in its long finish. Given a couple of years in bottle, it will probably become more winsome as well as more interesting. The Long-Depaquit estate has been owned by the Bichot family of Beaune negociants for more than three decades, and with the re-emergence of that house as a quality force, one hopes that more attention will be paid to some of the most distinctive and age-worthy wines from one of the largest estates (including 1/6 of the grand cru acreage) in Chablis. Director Matthieu Mangenot and his team harvested in only 12 days.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com