The brilliant 2004 St.-Joseph blanc has a light gold color and a big, sweet nose of nectarines, mango, and gravel. Elegant but strongly fruited and medium-bodied, this is a beauty to drink over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Northern Rhone winemakers are still talking up the 2004 vintage for whites, and this is one example of why. Despite a hint of vanilla and toast, this wine’s clean, minerally aromas break through, and while the mouthfeel is broad and creamy, there’s ample balancing acidity. Gentle oak spice marks the finish, which features a mouthwatering quality that brings you back for another sip. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 88