The 2005 Cotes du Roussillon Villages – from what Hecht and Bannier call “a perfect vintage for Roussillon” – pours forth aromas and juicy sumptuous profusion of ripe black raspberry and cassis, but smoke, pencil lead, salt, chalk, and wet stone are never any farther from the surface than is the mother rock in most of these vineyards. And for all of this wine’s expansive richness, there is ample contrast from juniper and marjoram, as well as a delightfully cool character to its long finishing fruit, complemented by invigoratingly tart fruit skin and crushed stone. With tight but refined tannic underpinnings, this will be worth following for at least 4-5 more years. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier’s quality-conscious negociant operation (for more about which, consult the accompanying Languedoc report in this issue) are crafting wines on a par with the finest in Roussillon, making theirs consistently remarkable values. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700