The 2006 Syrah Cougar Hills was made with 80% whole clusters. It offers up the best aromatics of the first 4 wines with scents of chocolate, mocha, espresso, mineral, blueberry, and black cherry leaping from the glass. On the palate notes of roasted herbs, salt, and iodine emerge for additional complexity. The oak is fully integrated and the tannin well hidden. This rich, pleasure-bent effort can be enjoyed now or cellared for 5-7 years.
When it comes to his wines, the otherwise wild and irrepressible Charles Smith is as serious as a heart attack. Native yeast fermentation, foot crushing, spontaneous malolactic fermentations, gentle basket pressing, no fining or filtration are routinely practiced in the cellar. Even more important, Charles Smith knows where to find the great grapes. In a region where blending is still the rule of thumb, he is the ultimate terroirist. His 2006 collection is as good or better than anything he has done to date, although a tasting of 2007 barrel samples indicate that the best is yet to come.
Tel. (509) 526-5230; www.kvintners.com
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