Salt-laced roasted black fruits make up the aromatic profile of the 2003 Syrah Cougar Hills. Suave yet powerful, this pure, focused effort builds in intensity on the palate, revealing sassafras-laced blackberries, black raspberries, and blueberries. Its extensive finish exhibits exquisitely ripened tannin. Drink it over the next 7 years. Prior to tasting bottled wines, Smith invited me to taste samples from barrels in his converted garage/barn. Though I’m not giving reviews of unfinished wines in this report, the 2003 Syrah “The Hustler” (in honor of Jackie Gleason, “a big man who was light on his feet,” according to Smith) was exceptional yet still months away from being bottled. I mention it because there are only 5 barrels of it and it will go quickly.
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