DuMOL Finn Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, USA

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A stunning effort is the 2011 Pinot Noir Finn, which comes from the DuMol Vineyard (two-thirds) and the rest from vineyards near Occidental on the Sonoma Coast. Made from multiple clones, it possesses fabulous intensity for a 2011 along with a deep plum/ruby/purple-tinged color, and a sweet perfume of boysenberries, blackberries and cherries intermixed with hints of lavender and forest floor. This beautifully textured, full-bodied, shockingly superb 2011 Pinot Noir was clearly harvested before the damaging rains began in October. Enjoy it over the next 6-8 years. Since its founding in 1996, DuMol has been one of the superstar wineries of the entire California North Coast. They primarily focus on gorgeous Burgundian-styled Chardonnays from cool micro-climates as well as Pinot Noirs, with the added attraction of one Viognier and one or two Syrahs. They have been consistent from the beginning with winemaker Andy Smith, who has a brilliant record not only at DuMol, but at several other estates where he is the full-time winemaker, particularly the Napa Valley estate of Larkmead, just north of St. Helena. All five 2011 Chardonnays I tasted merit serious attention from consumers. Forget the difficulties of this vintage as DuMol came through with flying colors. All of the 2011 Pinot Noirs were harvested before the heavy rains fell in October, except for the Cuvee Ian, which was completely declassified. The three vintages of Syrah Eddie’s Patch I tasted come from a vineyard called Hoppe-Kelly, which is planted in red soils southeast of Healdsburg, near Chalk Hill. Tel. (925) 254-8922

The 2011 Pinot Noir Finn is a blend of 65% DuMol O’Connell Vineyard and 35% Occidental Road. Sweet tannins and saline notes support a core of racy, deeply expressive fruit as the Finn opens up in the glass. This is another wine where the balance and overall harmony speak loudest of all. The rich, textured finish laced with dark red berries, savory herbs and earthiness is deeply satisfying. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2009 as a “sweet, forward vintage,” while 2011 is more “dynamic and commercial.” Smith reserves his highest praise for 2010, which he calls his favorite among the three current vintages. In 2011, Smith bulked out 20% of his Pinot Noirs, including the entire production of the Eoin. All the 2011 Pinots came in before the rains. Smith used whole clusters only for the Aidan, as botrytis was an issue in all the other Pinot vineyards. The Charles Heintz Chardonnay came in after the rains. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste the 2011 Syrahs, as the final blends had not yet been put together at the time of this tasting. In broad terms, the DuMol Chardonnays are all fermented and aged in barrel, with no lees stirring. Some of the wines are aged in slightly larger 300-liter barrels, and at times the malolactic fermentations are partly blocked, which results in wines that are texturally rich but also full of energy, a combination that is rare and hard to achieve. The single-vineyard Pinots spend 14-15 months in barrel on their fine lees, while the Syrahs get a few more months in oak. At their best, the Pinots and Syrahs are compelling.Tel. (925) 254-8922